Toledo
Medieval monumentality
We took a day tour to Toledo from Madrid, which we had organized in advance without buying the train tickets online, believing that it was enough to go to Atocha Station, buy them and get on the train. Well, it happens that Toledo is one of the most chosen destinations by tourists visiting the capital, so it is advisable to secure them at least the day before to have the possibility to choose the desired schedule.
The delay in getting a seat, for two hours later than planned, actually turned out to be a great opportunity to get to know the nearby neighborhood of Lavapiés, as we got tickets for the 11:30 am train, which even allowed us to have a healthy breakfast in one of its nice cafes in the district.
After that, we went back to Atocha and took the AVE that in a little more than half an hour left us at the beautiful station of Toledo.
Upon arrival, we did not hesitate to take a cab, the first one we saw, telling the driver to take us to the Mirador del Valle to get a panoramic view of the city, the Tajo river that surrounds it. From there the Alcázar looks magnificent, as well as the whole physiognomy of the beautiful Toledo.
The local cabs are excellent and are willing to advise you, wait for you and take pictures from the best places.
So, postcards ready, to avoid wearing us out with so much ascent we asked him to take us to the imposing Cathedral of Santa Maria, also called Catedral Primada de España. It is really impressive. Gothic in style, it was built between 1226 and 1493. A colossal work. Its interior, equally magnificent, has the Main Chapel, the altarpiece, the Chapter House, the Mozarabic Chapel, the stained glass windows, the Choir, the Sacristy, where hang extraordinary canvases of the great Spanish painters, such as El Greco or Velázquez. Admission tickets are purchased at the front store and include an audio guide.
When we left, a carefully prepared itinerary would allow us to believe we were lost in the narrow streets of Toledo, discovering its wonders. A clarification: it is essential to wear comfortable shoes because in Toledo everything is uphill or downhill. Not even the best fitness class will defend you from the physical wear and tear of walking it.
We start at the Pozo Amargo. Toledo legend has it that tears of longing for the beloved caused in a young woman, and they were so many that embittered the waters of the well. A short walk and we arrived at the Jewish Quarter, to discover the plaques that -in three languages- are stamped on the floor welcoming us to this beautiful neighborhood.
Just in front, in the Church of the Savior, we validated the tickets we had purchased online for the Tourist Bracelet, which would allow us to enter the main buildings of the Monumental Toledo.
In the Church of the Savior you can visit the excavations that give an account of the history of this ancient city.
A little further on, the Church of Santo Tomé is the obligatory visit in Toledo to be enraptured by the iconic work of Doménikos Theotokópoulos (originally from Crete, hence his nickname "El Greco"), the famous Burial of the Count of Orgaz, painted between 1586 and 1588, which depicts the burial of Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo, lord of the town of Orgaz.
Then, we visited the Synagogue of Santa María La Blanca, of a subtle beauty. It was one of the favorites of @tripticity_. It is a Mudejar building, from the 12th century, converted into a church under the invocation of the Virgin in 1411. The splendid thing is its interior, with its white walls, columns that form a "forest".
We continue to the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, another jewel of the city in Gothic style. Inside, the galleries of the two-story cloister stand out.
On the way to the College of the Noble Maidens, we noticed the Maidens' Shed. They are constructions in height that allowed to communicate two buildings. There are several in the city, some more ornate than others, but all equally attractive. Once at the Colegio, we continue to be amazed by Toledo's treasures.
Before arriving at the Church of the Jesuits, we passed by the Shed of St. Peter the Martyr.
The baroque Church of San Ildefonso (patron saint of Toledo) stands out for its white facade and main nave, but especially for the incredible views of Toledo from its two towers and the passage that connects them
Then followed the Sheds of Santa Clara and Santo Domingo and we arrived at the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz, in a marathon day of ups and downs. It is a mosque from 999 with horseshoe arches typical of Muslim art. Of course: it testifies to the passage of three religions through the building. It is the oldest monument in the city, the best example of the multiculturalism of Toledo. The legend of the Cristo de La Luz tells that a miraculously illuminated cross was found inside.
Once we arrived at the Plaza de Zocodover, which serves as the main square, we grabbed some snacks, as we had not stopped for a sip of water until then, and headed for the Alcázar, a medieval rectangular fortress located in the highest part of the city. On the way back, a few meters from the Plaza de Zocodover, and already exhausted, we took a city bus that destiny wanted that due to a malfunction in the service, it was free that day. In ten minutes it took us to the Toledo train station. On the way we could see the ancient Alcantara Bridge that crosses the Tajo, a work of the Romans, around the year 100, with its pillars and central arch.
We boarded the train and collapsed into our seats, exhausted after completing the scheduled circuit to the letter, to rest for the short trip back to Atocha. Just in front of the station, the mythical bar El Brillante awaited us for some sandwiches that made our souls return to our bodies. We tried the famous fried squid and one of tuna with red bell pepper, both delicious, of course, with a glass of wine, celebrating the endurance and stoicism with which we could meet the goal of touring the main monuments of Toledo.