Finca Santa Elena
A beautiful surprise in the heart of Quebrada de las Conchas
Those who usually drive through the Quebrada de las Conchas, on the road between Salta and Cafayate, would not imagine that only a few kilometers away from Route 68 there is this first class tourist and gastronomic offer.
The world travels, the devotion for animals and quality cheesemaking, the entrepreneurial spirit and the desire to excel of Alejandro Villagrán, creator of Santa Elena, are evident in every detail.
There is a genuine interest in offering excellence in each of the proposed services, which combine the daily tasks of the Santa Elena farm with horseback riding adapted to the visitor and goat cheese tastings.
We arrived around noon. The incredible Omar welcomed us and we understood that from that moment on he would be our guide and personalized assistant, in the manner of the most exclusive rural tourism chains. After settling into the room of the old house, where we would spend the night, we went to the corrals where the horses were waiting for us to leave for one of the most magnificent rides of our lives.
It is a journey through the heart of the Quebrada, crossing the red rock formations that are usually admired from the road. You ride among these surreal-looking formations on par with the condor caves, easily detectable by the white spots left by the droppings of the most majestic birds of the Andes.
The views are breathtaking, the different colors of the ravine form rainbows of the most varied tones. After an hour we arrive at the Ventanas, two openings formed by erosion that serve as a frame for the amazing photo, with the background contrast of the green of the valley and the reddish tones of the mountains.
One is large, huge, somewhat rectangular; the other is small, well rounded. The photos capture only a small part, very minimal, of what this natural scenery really means.
Omar, besides being a seasoned horseman, is also in charge of taking the videos and photos so that the visitor can fully enjoy the experience. He knows with great sensitivity when it is time to pose and when it is time to enjoy the adventure in silence.
After the Ventanas we approach the area of the natural reserve, from where you can admire the Castillos, a name that characterizes the part of the ravine in which high towers were formed over the years simulating fortresses.
Precisely the other main attraction of Santa Elena is the horseback ride just below the Castles, a circuit that is made by the same bed of the river of the Shells. It can only be done during the summer season, when the waters clean the sand accumulated on the ground and allow the horse to move around safely. We can't wait to do it!
Back at the farm, it was time to taste the goat cheese, the main activity of the establishment.
In an adobe building, with a great viewpoint overlooking the corrals where the animals make up the scene, and as a backdrop the beautiful Cerro de la Cruz, Miguel Reyes, , an expert cheese maker, guided us to taste the seven gourmet varieties produced there, harmonized with Malbec and Torrontés from the nearby Stutz winery.
Actually @tripticity_ has an intolerance to goat cheese, so she limited herself to accompanying the wines with the remarkable bakery also available. Not so the driver and cadet, who ate a double portion and did not hesitate to express his satisfaction with the quality of the products.
The dedication and wisdom of the handsome Miguel, who in a paused tone was telling us about the production process and the characteristics of the cheeses he was offering, was remarkable. With the confidence gained during the conversation, Omar revealed that Miguel was also a poet. We found his book later, in the library of the main room, discovering a romantic soul under such a serious shell.
In that little break, while we were appreciating the sunset, we were preparing for another highlight, the dinner in charge of the enormous Luis Ramirez, a native of Animana and trained at the IGA of Buenos Aires.
We started with some delicious cheese and quinoa empanadas accompanied -of course- by the classic spicy sauce of tomato, onion, paprika and chili, as Luis told us when he introduced them.
The main courses that night were a fresh salad of greens, caramelized pears and crunchy walnuts and a perfectly cooked steak eye with creamy quinoa.
We closed with a chocolate and red fruit marquise, and the typical regional dessert of Salta par excellence, the dulce de leche and honey cane cream cake, reversed in the form of a mini cake.
At digestive tea time, we agreed that the dinner was already part of the best culinary proposals of Salta. The project to open a small restaurant on the farm is underway, which we have no doubt will become part of the gastronomic podium of the province if it maintains that quality and service.
In the morning, breakfast with pastries and tortillas, looking at the postcard of the windows, was the culmination of a perfect stop at Finca Santa Elena.
We left happily after the shared experiences, but not before visiting the cheese factory in the old part of the farm where Miguel, once again, showed his skill and high sensitivity.
We were on our way out when Alejandro approached us specially to say goodbye; another proof that the Finca Santa Elena experience is personalized.
We were able to thank him in person and capture what these words intend: it was an unforgettable 24 hours.
In the always surprising Cafayate, which every day allows you to discover a new experience, Finca Santa Elena dazzled us as a proposal that combines nature, warmth and good taste.