Salta City

Suggestion by @tripticity_

The city of Salta honors both its pseudonym of "La Linda" -The Beautiful- and the history that glorifies it.

A stroll through its historic center is an invitation to appreciate its neocolonial architecture and its colorful street stalls and markets. It also offers an attractive cultural offer and not to mention its characteristic regional gastronomy.

The suggestion of @tripticity_ is to start at the corner of Belgrano and Sarmiento avenues. There are two buildings to admire; on one side, the Historical Archive and Dr. Victorino de la Plaza Provincial Library (Biblioteca Provincial Dr. Victorino de la Plaza). On the other, just across the street, the Museum of Fine Arts of Salta (Museo de Bellas Artes de Salta) contains a synthesis of the cultural history of the province. It exhibits a sample of pre-Columbian art, religious art and highlights the collection of works by local artists, such as Carlos "Pajita" García Bes, Jorge Hugo Román, Aristene Papi, Ramiro Dávalos or Elsa Salfity, among many others.

Continuing along Belgrano Avenue towards the east, the area of Belgrano Square is dominated by old mansions and emblematic buildings such as the Usandivaras Palace -today transformed into Design Suites- or the provincial police station; there is also the plaque that shows the place where General Martín Miguel de Güemes was mortally wounded.

A hundred meters ahead is the Cathedral Museum Monsignor Carlos Mariano Perez and the back front of the Cathedral Basilica of Salta, which houses the sanctuary of Señor y la Virgen del Milagro (Lord and Virgin of the Miracle). The church stands out for its extraordinary beauty, both its façade and its interior, where its tiling is outstanding. There, in addition, also lives the history of Salta.

The chronicles report that after the earthquake of 1856, the construction of the new cathedral began, but the traditional veneration of Salta dates back to 1692, when a fierce earthquake caused the locals of Salta to beg for help from Jesus, after which the commotion miraculously stopped. The images had been found in Callao port in Peru, sent on muleback to the city and delivered to the people in the so-called Campo de la Cruz (Field of the Cross). Since the miraculous events that took place between September 13 and 15, 1692, according to which the tremors stopped once the images were taken out in procession, the cult and devotion to the Lord and the Virgin of the Miracle was generated. This feast is made concrete by means of a novena with a procession of enormous social magnitude. Already on the 13th and 14th it is a moving spectacle to observe the faithful coming down on foot from the distant hills, and finally the multitudinous procession takes place on September 15th of each year.

In the Catedral tis also the Pantheon of the Glories of the North. In fact, there rest the remains of Generals Martín Miguel de Güemes, Antonio Álvarez de Arenales, Rudecindo Alvarado and Doña Martina Silva de Gurruchaga.

About fifty meters from the cathedral, also on España Street, a must is Casa Moderna, a traditional store of wines, liquors, cheeses and cold cuts, spices, preserves and delicatessen. And excellent empanadas, of course.

Also on España Street is the Güemes Museum (Museo Güemes), which documents the history of the general and his valuable contribution to the emancipation struggle. It is housed in a mansion of authentic colonial style, which was the house where the local hero lived with his family. It is also a National Historic Monument. Visiting it allows a quick tour through the history of Salta.

On Mitre Street, the Museum of High Mountain Archeology -MAAM- Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña keeps and exhibits the mummified body of children found in 1999 at the top of the Llullaillaco volcano, as well as collections of the archeological heritage of the province.

Although there are three of them, the Niña del Rayo, the Niño and the Doncella, for preservation reasons only one is exhibited at a time.

A few meters ahead, on the same block, is the America Cultural Center (Centro Cultural América). The 1913 building is not to be missed, it was the headquarters of the traditional and aristocratic Club 20 de Febrero until it was expropriated during the government of Juan Domingo Perón in 1950. At present, it is a national historical monument and cultural space of the province.

On the other side of the Plaza 9 de Julio (with lush and varied vegetation), on Caseros Street, another highlight is the Historic Cabildo (Cabildo Histórico), once the seat of government (1626 - 1888) and now a national monument, it houses the very interesting Museo Histórico del Norte (Historical Museum of the North).

The roof is tiled, its balcony is outstanding, it is worth discovering the beautiful indiátides - caryatides with indigenous physiognomy - as well as the spire and the weathervane of wrought iron and cut sheet metal that represents a little page known as the Cabildo's Diablito (Little Devil).

A clarification: all the buildings surrounding the main square of the city respected the traditional recova, but the one of the Cabildo is particularly beautiful for its antiquity.

Explora Salta is a museum and cultural complex housed in the distinctive Leguizamón house, which was restored to become a space that shows the history of Salta and its people throughout the ages. It also contains an interactive museum, an exploratory for children and a design center with exhibition rooms.

Right next door, on La Florida pedestrian street, the Arias Rengel House Museum (Museo Casa Arias Rengel), cbuilt in the middle of the 18th century, is another example of colonial architecture.

For history lovers, the San Juan Bautista de la Merced parish church (San Juan Bautista de la Merced). stands out on Caseros Street. Inside is the cross that Belgrano, after the Battle of Salta, ordered to be placed on the mass grave with the legend "Winners and Losers in Salta, February 20, 1813".

Continuing along La Florida pedestrian street, you reach Urquiza Street, where the old San Miguel Market (Mercado San Miguel). Sis located. Although it has lost its authenticity, you can still find stalls selling the tasty seasonings of northern Argentina, such as paprika, cumin, chili or oregano from the Calchaquí Valleys.

Meanwhile, for religious art enthusiasts, on the corner of Alberdi and San Juan, on the south side of San Martin Avenue, stands the church of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Viña with its tall tower and attractive colors, the work of architect Noé Macchi. In its interior shines an oil painting of anonymous author, from the middle of the XVIII century, that represents Christ treading grapes.

On the way back to the main square of the city, at 400 Urquiza Street, it is also worth visiting the little known San José Chapel (Capilla San José), very simple but with a transcendent cultural heritage of Cuzco paintings.

Going back to Buenos Aires street, on the corner of Caseros, the Hotel Salta -from 1942- of clear neocolonial style is another icon of the city.

Caseros Street is for @tripticity_ perhaps the most beautiful street in the city. Particularly because it is framed -in the background- by the San Bernardo hill and also because it is home to beautiful historic buildings.

First of all, the Casa de Uriburu Museum, also from the XVIII century, with adobe walls and classic tiles, is representative of the architectural structure with a central courtyard and rooms around it. Its collection is composed of objects of colonial life.

Then, on the next corner stands the Basílica Menor y el Convento de San Francisco of the Franciscan order, of impressive architectural beauty and another of the significant symbols of the city, for its facade completely ornamented in vivid colors of terracotta and ivory. Its bell tower is considered the tallest in South America with 54 meters high. It is a must to visit its museum and the convent inside. At first sight, the ceramic mural that surrounds the entrance to the museum, executed by the Salta artist Elsa Salfity in 1978, in honor of Fray Mamerto Esquiú, stands out.

In addition, the church witnessed important historical events such as the presence of Manuel Belgrano in the mass celebrated after the Battle of Salta on February 20, 1813. The "Bell of the Homeland" was made, by order of the glorious general, by melting the weapons and ammunition used in the battle.

The San Francisco cultural complex offers guided tours of the basilica, the courtyards and the bell tower. Particularly interesting is the night visit proposal.

In addition, there is a restaurant inside and a night event with 3D projections and a light show is held periodically.

Continuing along Caseros Street, you arrive at San Bernardo Church and Convent, one of the oldest buildings in Salta, home of the Carmelitas Descalzas cloistered nuns. Although it is not open to the public, its facade is extraordinary, highlighting the baroque wooden door of 1762, entirely hand carved by native Indians. On weekends you can buy superb sweets and breads made by the nuns. 

From there, it is pleasant to walk to the Paseo Güemes, passing by the Usina Cultural de Salta (which houses a theater auditorium, exhibition halls and an amphitheater), which offers several options of bars, cafes and restaurants, for a unique view of another icon of the city: The monument to General Martín Miguel de Güemes at the base of San Bernardo Hill, where every June 17 the traditional bonfires are held in his honor, preceded by the Guardia Bajo las Estrellas, in which the gauchos gather in vigil around the monument to then participate in the parade. On the way, the architecture of the secluded Club 20 de Febrero. Sstands out. Its bar, open to non-members, Febrero, is perfect for refreshments while recharging your energy.

Another suggested tour is to climb to the top of San Bernardo Hill using Salta Cable Car Teleférico Salta, to get the best panoramic view of the city and the Lerma Valley. There, the gastronomic project of chef Fernando Rivarola and sommelier Gabriela Lafuente, El Baqueano, has settled. They offer contemporary local and signature cuisine. The restaurant, with the best view of the city, has an excellent wine cellar, an open kitchen that uses local and seasonal products and a unique gastronomic library.

A bit far from the city center, the Mercado Artesanal is located in an old mansion with abobe walls and long galleries on San Martín Street. In its beginnings, mills used to operate there, which is why the area was known as Alto Molino (High Mill). There are regional products for sale from local artisans: basketry, weaving, pottery, silverware, leather work, to name a few.

Nearby, the folkloric peña Casona del Molino is a classic for tourists, not only for its famous empanadas, but also for its genuine party atmosphere. Spontaneous guitar concerts take place every night and everyone is welcome. At night, the area of Balcarce and Paseo Güemes streets concentrates pubs with drinks and music.

Finally, an authentic tour around the city of Salta must include necessary stops to enjoy the regional gastronomy offered by the city. It is an excellent opportunity to try the humitas, tamales and locro, as well as regional sweets, such as candied nuts, quesillo with sugarcane honey or cuaresmillos and turrón salteño (a cake with sugarcane honey-based meringue and dulce de leche).

It is also essential to try some empanadas salteñas. Here are @tripticity_'s suggestions.

Arabian food

A great immigration stream arrived in Salta in the last two decades of the 19th century, so that " Arabic food" is already part of Salta's gastronomic tradition. Empanadas, wrapped children, kipe, falafel, mamules, baklavas, there is something for everyone. There are many excellent restaurants to taste these delicacies. Our favorite is Dubai, for its good prices and good service.    

Italian food

Run by its owners, L'Italiano Di Milano is the place in Salta to enjoy pizzas and pastas al dente. All the dishes are designed by Walter himself, the Milanese who has been living in Salta for many years and offers excellent pizzas and pastas of superior quality. The ambience is very nice and the Italian radio music stands out.

Parrillada

There are several restaurants specialized in the typical Argentine asado. El Charrúa (in a bodegón version on Caseros Street or a more refined one on Paseo Güemes) is a good option, as well as 802 on the Balcarce and Distinto or El Viejo Jack II in Tres Cerritos.

How to get there

At a great distance from Buenos Aires and other national tourist centers, Salta is best reached by plane. For the traveler who wants to see Argentina in a few days, there are excellent connections with direct flights to Mendoza, Iguazú and Bariloche. Two weekly flights connect Salta with Guarulhos airport in Sao Paulo and the route to Panama City should be reopened at some point.

The city of Salta is an ideal base for a trip that includes Jujuy and Catamarca.  

How to get around

Unfortunately, Uber and Cabify are not yet operating in Salta. 

From the airport the best way to get around is in one of the remises waiting in the departure hall. The image of drivers without identification offering their services loudly may generate distrust to the neophyte tourist, but in reality they belong to an agency that has the exclusivity of private service. The rate is set by the taximeter and their drivers are kind and attentive to the newcomer. At peak times or with high demand there may be a shortage of supply and there is no choice but to wait.

For those going directly to Jujuy, the same vehicles make the trip and it is convenient to join four passengers to reduce costs. 

Another option is the shuttle with final stop at Plaza 9 de Julio, although prices are not so convenient when traveling in a group or when time is short.  

Once in the city, the most comfortable way to move around is to take a cab or a remise on the street. Fares are similar and the cleanliness and comfort of the car are random. 

Urban bus transportation requires a special card called Saeta. Although it is the cheapest option, its stops are poorly signposted and frequencies are irregular. It is advisable, especially if you do not speak Spanish, to get advice on where to take the bus and where to get off.

There are bike paths that connect the center with the east and west zones and especially with the beautiful residential area of Tres Cerritos.    

Vehicular traffic is quite chaotic and, as a rule, before crossing a street, it is important to remember that in Salta, pedestrians never have priority.

If it is a visit of several days, the best option is to make the tour in a rented car. If hours are short, a day tour to Cafayate, Cachi or San Antonio de los Cobres will have in its favor the presence of a guide, but it will be quite demanding on the body.

Accessibility

In the city center there is good accessibility for people with reduced mobility both in the center and at the attractions.

Where to stay

The best area is downtown, in the quadrant comprised by the streets Caseros, Catamarca/Vicente López, Entre Ríos Av. and 25 de Mayo/Pellegrini.

The area of Tres Cerritos, in the corridor of avenues Bicentenario (ex Virrey Toledo) and Reyes Católicos, although far from the historical attractions, is a good option for those looking for a residential area with bars and restaurants. In San Lorenzo the offer focuses on hotels and cabins surrounded by greenery.

In the area of San Martin Park there are hostels and more economical lodgings.

Security

With the logical precautions, in general the historical quarter and the macrocenter of Salta are safe. Special alert is required in the area of Mercado San Miguel for pickpockets looking for unsuspecting tourists.   

Currency exchange

A few meters from Plaza 9 de Julio, on España Street at 600, the "arbolitos" (little trees) are waiting with their dollars, euros, reais and Chilean pesos. They can be exchanged on the street without any problem.

por los carteristas buscadores de turistas confiados.