Zagreb
Intricate and developing
Zagreb is the most populated city in Croatia. It was impossible for us not to remember its exit from the former Yugoslavia, a cruel war in which Argentina was able to provide it with weapons against the Serbs.
The capital was dominated by the Romans, by the Austro-Hungarian Empire and by communism by the Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia. It is distinguished, emphasizing in its small historical center the tall buildings with their peculiar roofs and the good views since it is located in the heights. In addition to the ups and downs, highlights in the lower part of its line of gray buildings, although it is noted that they want to leave their dark past, resignify its intense history and trust in a prosperous future.
We arrived to Croatia from Ljubljana in a fast FlixBus bus. We were cautious that the Croatian border controls could be intimidating, but luckily we got through without any interruption.
We had come from several days of non-stop touring through Eastern Europe, so we had planned a break at the famous Esplanade, hotel, located in front of the Glavni Kolodvor, a mythical site born from the times of the Orient Express.
Yes, we arrived in a bus full of young people traveling around the old continent on a low budget, and after a fifteen minute walk, carrying the carry on, we checked in at the exquisite and luxurious Esplanade, hotel, to have a day of rest and relaxation, with a comfortable bed and a relaxing sauna before continuing with the rally we had planned.
In front of the hotel is the Esplanade Fountain. Also very close by is the Botanical Garden and the National Theater, Hrvatsko narodno kazalište, from 1895.
We walked around the neighborhood and came to a place that Mr. @tripticity_, had discovered, Croatian cuisine. It was Heritage. Although tiny and even a bit uncomfortable, with space for five diners, it offers Croatian national meals in a sandwich-type version of the most exquisite delicacy.
We returned to the hotel to fulfill our goal of complete relaxation.
In the evening, the hotel bar tempted us with a glass of local white wine and the house zagoraki štrukli, the legendary fresh cheese and sour cream pastry, well au gratin.
The next day, after an opulent breakfast we started our tour of the city. We began a fifteen-minute walk along Tomislava Avenue towards the Upper Town, Donji Grad, the old town of Gradec.
We visit Josip Jelačić Square, with its equestrian statue of the 19th century viceroy and military governor appointed by Austria. Then we continued on to Dolac Market.
We knew it was a must to visit the Gric Tunnels. It is a network of air raid shelters from the Second World War, near the Art Park, we found one of its entrances. Today they function as cultural spaces, in which there are also quite clean public toilets. They can be difficult to find even though they are marked on Google Maps. You have to be alert because the signs are in sight.
On the way out, we took the Uspinjača funicular, the world's shortest public transport, at only sixty meters, which connects Tomićeva Street in the lower town with Strossmayer Promenade in the upper town. Its ticket is mandatory for every lawful traveler.
At the Lotrščak Tower, every day the cannon firing takes place at 12 noon, which commemorates the firing that happened during the siege of the Turks.
Also in the upper part of the town is the Church of Santa Caterina, the Jesuit Church in the Baroque style. It was then, like most of the historic center, undergoing restoration work, but we enjoyed its very good viewpoint of the city. We then passed by the Church of San Marcos. The outer perimeter is fenced off because the municipality, surprisingly, uses it as a parking lot. Original from the 14th century, it is famous for its tiled roof with the coat of arms of Zagreb (the white castle on a red background) and of the Kingdom of Croatia (the Habsburgs). It is extraordinary.
Continuing on we pass through the Stone Gatea, Kamenita Vrata, the ancient eastern entrance to the city. During the fire of 1731 it was almost completely destroyed except for the anonymous painting of the Virgin and Child that is venerated today and receives donations from local devotees.
Going down, we rumbled along Tkalčićeva Street, lined with bars and pubs. It was there that we found one of the stores that reminded us that it was in Croatia that the tie was invented - in the 17th century - although today it is also well known for its excellent sportsmen.
Once at the bottom, we passed by the Cathedral, with its one hundred and five meter bell tower, which was badly damaged in 2020 in one of the many earthquakes in the region.
Back at the Central Hotel, a three-star hotel that assured us clean sheets and hot water at night, before the flight to Sofia, we got lost in its most commercial center.
And we tempted ourselves with a snack at Sopal, a wine bar with Croatian snack options: the dendelion, a flower with cottage cheese and rice paper and a kind of fresh tuna ceviche. All very delicious, accompanied of course with a glass of local wine.
The next morning, we took an Uber to the airport to catch our flight to our next destination, beautiful Sofia.
We left the capital of Croatia knowing that a return already owes @tripticity_ to this increasingly touristy country to get to know its beautiful Adriatic coast.