Puerto Bemberg Lodge

A historic manor house with haute cuisine

The journey actually began 85 kilometers earlier, in the city of Montecarlo. There, looking for a post on our way started in Oberá, we came across a small ice cream shop called El Indiecito. With nothing flashy in its decoration, the sharp gourmet sense of @tripticity_ once again did its thing. We tried some exquisite ice creams there, with unusual tastes: sunflower seed and cheese with quince jam took the lead, followed by passion fruit and rosella. 

Already satisfied, we returned to the road towards Posada Puerto Bemberg. Half an hour from the Iguazu Falls, in Puerto Libertad, this refined lodging offers a stay between the Paraná rainforest and the Paraná River. Comfort and kindness are guaranteed. 

The residence of Mr. Otto Bemberg, a 19th century German immigrant who ended up founding an economic empire, is rented completely and has an exclusive chef at your disposal. Another more affordable option is the Posada, with fifteen rooms in the heart of the natural reserve.

Its historic chapel, designed by Alejandro Bustillo, overlooking the river, is worth a visit, as well as the path that leads to the Guazú waterfall under the lush vegetation. The swimming pool, surrounded by a flowery garden, invites you to cool off in the hot and humid afternoons.

Jonathan Benítez, in charge of Food and Beverage, told us that in Puerto Iguazú, due to the pandemic and union issues, the agreements in the gastronomic sector are short, so that in a humble family hostel you can have a first class chef and, on the other hand, in a four or more star hotel, an inexperienced cook. In our case, we were fortunate that the brilliant Cristian Nuñez, trained at the Gran Meliá Iguazú hotel, was in charge of our banquet that night. 

Jonnhy was very generous. We were leaving the Posada on Sunday morning when we passed him on the road. We made a U-turn in the hope that he would keep his promise to show us the local wine cellar. The result: a beautiful chat, with a picada and torrontés salteño in between, for a long hour, with an exchange of books and the promise of a future meeting. The wine cellar? Made of stone and located in a strategic position in the lodge, sheltered from the heat, it keeps the wines behind a room whose walls are decorated with contemporary designs by Eduardo Hoffmann from Mendoza. This is where the tastings, led by Jonathan, take place.

The night before we had been able to enjoy the fusion cuisine, with an impeccable three-course menu. First, sweet potato croquettes with cheese. The main course options were a superb pumpkin risotto or braised bondiola ravioli with barbecue sauce and roasted tomatoes. Both delicious. For dessert, the classic flan with dulce de leche and the mamon in syrup with fresh cheese did their thing. The wine list offered an interesting variety of reds and whites. Our choice was a pinot grigio. 

We enjoyed all this culinary ceremony in the room where the huge library built with old boards from the Newell's club, the grand piano, the native masks of wild animals and Hoffmann's paintings stand out, while the huge windows allow us to admire the exuberance of the missionary jungle.

It was also Jonathan who told us about a characteristic bee of Misiones, called "yatei", very thin and subtle, which builds its honeycomb in the trunks. Our passionate host even showed us one right at the entrance to the restaurant, called Yatei.

In the mornings, an authentic local breakfast is offered at the same tables, with local fruits, fresh juices, m'beju and chipa.

After that succulent delicacy and the picada, we returned to Route 12 with the certainty of having chosen Puerto Bemberg as a stopover prior to Iguazú National Park Parque Nacional Iguazú.