Panama City
Its skyline, its balconies, its people
We arrived on a Copa Airlines flight at Tocumen airport at dawn, just at sunrise time. From there an Uber took us to Casco Viejo in a transfer of about twenty minutes. In the early morning, as in almost every large city, traffic was quiet. Congestion in downtown Panama usually gets heavier in the middle of the morning, a fact to keep in mind when moving around during peak hours.
Moreover, it was very early in the morning, so the first impression of the old neighborhood was one of pure tranquility, very different from the lively atmosphere of its streets during the following hours of the day.
For the first night, we chose to stay at La Compañía, the superb hotel of the Hyatt chain that defines itself as "the great living museum of the city". It was the home of the Jesuit Fathers during their stay in the isthmus, all of which can be appreciated in its ancient brick walls, in unmistakable details of past centuries that combine outstandingly with the contemporary decoration proposed by the hotel.
We were greeted by Elias, a friendly concierge who was well disposed to provide us with valuable information about the city and our accommodations.
As it was still early in the morning, we decided to take the walking tour but not before trying the excellent quality breakfast at the Unido specialty cafeteria. In an emblematic corner, like every corner of Casco Viejo, where the symbiotic architecture between Spanish and French colonial architecture acquires the colorfulness of Central America, this café is run by expert roasters.
The proposal of Javier, a certified guide, is to take a tour in which he relates the intriguing history of this recent country. We start right in front of the Santa María la Antigua Cathedral, on the very day when the founding of the city was celebrated in its current location. It so happens that the original settlement of Panama, in the first instance, took place further south, where its ruins are still preserved and can be visited.
From there, we walked towards Herrera Square. At that moment Javier told us the part of the history related to its division from Colombia and consequent independence. As a remnant of Bolivar's dream, all that Central American territory was united under the governorship of Colombia. From this end of the Casco Viejo you can see something of Chorillo, one of the spiciest neighborhoods in the country.
We continued along Avenue A towards Plaza Francia, making a stop at the ruins of the Arco Chato. The iconic stone arch that, according to tradition, served as justification for the French in their fervent task of convincing the Americans at the time of the "sale" of the canal project is preserved in what was the headquarters of the Dominican monks. He told us that the Americans intended to carry out a similar project in Nicaragua. At that time, the publication of a postage stamp with a volcano erupting on Nicaraguan soil was the key to achieve that some of the money invested by the Gauls could be recovered through the "purchase" made by the Americans, and thus continued the union of the oceans in the Isthmus of Panama.
Next, we visited the Carlos V square where Javier told us the history of the Caribbean tribe. In his corner, the women of the Guna community exhibit their beautiful products for sale. It is a distinctive textile made on layers of embroidered fabric. The uniqueness of the community is that it functions as a matriarchy, which was noticeable in the short and fun interaction with Martina, the friendly saleswoman willing to give smiles and take pictures with tourists.
Once in Plaza Francia, it was time for the expected story about the reasons why the French could not achieve their magnificent enterprise. It was all due to the betrayal of the small mosquito whose bite caused mortality among the Gallic workers. It was the yellow fever plague, which was later fought by the Americans thanks to the research work of a Cuban doctor, Carlos Finlay. And that was how they were able to build the Panama Canal in 1914.
It was already close to noon, so the heat was felt. The Caribbean sun gives no truce, so we walked down Avenue A towards the comforts of La Compañía to check in at the historic hotel. The establishment -truly- is a museum with the luxury and comfort of a five-star hotel.
After a short rest, we enjoyed the hotel pool strategically located on the terrace overlooking the towers of the cathedral made with pearl inlays that sparkle in the sun.
That weekend was Chinese New Year, the beginning of the year of the water rabbit, so @tripticity_ did not hesitate to head to the V Centenario square to enjoy the popular festival, getting lost in the crowd of locals celebrating with music and beer, while we walked through the stalls, beach bars offering the most exotic Asian specialties.
Back at the hotel, the Capella rooftop invited us to enjoy the evening breeze. So we decided to accompany some nachos with the characteristic Panama beer, sitting on that showy rooftop on our first night in the city.
In the morning awaited a superb breakfast at the hotel's flagship restaurant that operates under the name Santuario.
After another dip in the swimming pool with an impressive panoramic view, we visited the Mola Museum. Small but very complete, it tells the history of the Guna community and its textile art. Then we headed to El Guayacano, on West First Street, to get an authentic Panama hat. The story goes that it was actually an Ecuadorian worker who gave his hat to Theodore Roosevelt, president of the United States, during the construction of the Panama Canal, becoming the iconic symbol of Panamanian elegance. During his visit, the American leader did not stop wearing it, making it forever the famous Panama hat, although the garment is originally from the Ecuadorian coast.
There are different qualities. To know which one to buy from the immense offer, in case you want to invest a few dollars to get the most characteristic souvenir, you should look for certified Ecuadorian manufacture, preferably from Montecristo, and authenticity of exclusive use of toquilla straw, a natural fiber that allows its modeling.
After a last tour of the Paseo de las Bóvedas, we checked in at Casa Arias, an Airbnb option well located in Casco Viejo, and then headed to Causeway Amador. This is a coastal walkway that connects three small islands, which was built with the material extracted from rock and earth at the time of construction of the famous canal. It was a Sunday, so many locals took advantage of the good weather to stroll along its pedestrian walkways.
We took a long walk to the Biomuseo to appreciate its unique architecture designed by the genius of Frank Gehry. To return to Casa Arias we took an Uber that decided to avoid the Sunday traffic jam and cross the Chorrillo, late at night on a hot Sunday. This allowed us to see the inside of the popular neighborhood, where one soldier per block keeps a watchful eye on this typical Latin American agglomeration. In addition to the graffiti that shows the living memory of those killed by bombs during the conflict of former President Noriega with the United States, we were surprised by the urban life developed on its sidewalks, where children bathed in canvas pools installed on the sidewalk, or the street vendors still willing to offer the remains of their merchandise.
In the evening we enjoyed the breeze from the terrace of Casa Casco, a lively bar with DJ music and great views of the old city as well as the Panamanian skyscrapers.
The next day was dedicated to shopping at the great Albrook mall, taking only breaks to enjoy the junk food at Taco Bell. In my youth, when I lived in the United States, tacos and burritos became forever my favorite, which is why in every city I find a store of the chain I take the opportunity to indulge in Mexican fast food remembering those times. Another stop, a little more gourmet, was to enjoy a delicious Häagen-Dazs ice cream.
Those days in Panama were justified, in addition to a break in the beautiful Pacific city, to take a cruise through the southern Caribbean, whose main attraction was precisely the crossing of the canal. However, having lived the experience of visiting the Miraflores Locks, I wanted Mr. @tripticity_ to know them. It happens that not at any time you can see the ships pass, only very early in the morning or after siesta when there is that plus in addition to the visit to the center itself. At other times the ships do not pass by and the experience can be boring.
Early in the morning of the following day we tried this visit without luck, since when we arrived -just after eight in the morning- at the visitor center, since it only opens its doors at that time, we were told that the last vessel had passed and the next one would be after two o'clock in the afternoon. This comment is valid for those who want to ensure a visit with a view: the best time to visit is during siesta time. In our case, we made the crossing experience on the cruise we took, which assured us the most exclusive appreciation of the operation of this magnificent work of human genius, all the work of the locks and the colossal ships passing through them. At the visitor center, only one of the three terraces was open, so the second floor was crowded with people without any protection from the sun's rays.
The canal was inaugurated on August 15, 1914 and its operation was stopped only twice, on the occasion of World War I and World War II. Its expansion took place in 2016.
After that we checked in at Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo, for our last two nights in the city. The decision to move from hotel to hotel is not entirely comfortable but guaranteed us to get to know the different local variants of accommodation.
Las instalaciones son de súper lujo, además tiene una ubicación estratégica justo frente a la Cinta Costera Tres. Un diseño contemporáneo con detalles típicos, propias del “arte de vivir francés” que combinan con la exuberante vegetación caribeña, logrando una perfecta composición propia de un cinco estrellas. Ahora bien, una aclaración: el servicio requiere de cierto pulido. Es que el establecimiento se encontraba recientemente inaugurado, pero resulta inadmisible que en una reserva con desayuno incluido, luego resulte poco claro lo “incluido” y lo que no está, atento a que la versión propuesta no es buffet sino a la carta, como tampoco que el mozo de su restaurant pida la propina en cash, y menos incluso la falta de agua atento a un supuesto corte del suministro generalizado.
But @tripticity_ remains with those dreamy sunsets watching the Panamanian skyline of large and tall skyscrapers, while the tide rose, in the privacy of its balcony, as well as the magnificent private art collection exhibited by the hotel, one of the largest in Panama, which includes unpublished photographs of the construction of the canal, the historic Union Club, exclusively for gentlemen, which operated in that emblematic building and its beautiful French style. The building hosted notable receptions in honor of famous visitors such as Queen Elizabeth and Theodore Roosevelt. In fact, some of the works hanging in its galleries were once in the neighboring Canal Museum. A replica of the 1912 map of the canal route, identical to the one exhibited at the Interoceanic Canal Museum, also stands out in the lobby. The hotel's strategic location in a small cove is also outstanding.
After enjoying the swimming pool with a view of the Pacific, we walked to the Seafood Market. Fortunately for us, as soon as we entered, the typical Caribbean downpour started, by which time we were already enjoying our seafood feast. We first visited the stalls selling fresh fish, and then took a table at one of the market's popular stalls. We opted for Alison, to enjoy a sea bass fillet with seafood, patacones and yucca, accompanied by ice cream and numerous Balboa beers.
The sunset from the balcony of the suite, with the best view of the city skyline, was one of the best of the hotel.
In the evening, a short history tour of the lobby is offered for both guests and tourists. At six o'clock in the evening, a typical Panamanian dance is presented on its beautiful terrace; a small folkloric show.
In the evening, we opted to try the hotel's gastronomic proposal, in its informal version, also on the terrace.
Breakfast in the morning was a la carte. Although it was included as per our reservation, it was again a bit tedious to deal with the lack of information and the pastries were not at all memorable, especially considering the French hallmark of the chain. Not even close or comparable to the colossal variety and taste of La Compania's breakfast.
The day was super sunny, so it was an invitation to enjoy the view from the pool to the Cinta Costera Tres, the Pacific and the birds that did not stop dancing in search of food after the swaying of the tide.
As night fell, we got ready to have a drink at the exotic and cool steam punk-style Element bar. The bartender, Robert, welcomed us warmly and proceeded to tell us a little about the place. It is inspired by the literary works of Jules Verne, especially the iconic Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The establishment does not have a menu, but the drink is defined according to the conversation with the specialist in charge of the bar. He is responsible for presenting the unique cocktails. The variety of labels is enhanced by the unique collection of macerations prepared in house and by the amount of rums and whiskeys from the most diverse places, such as the famous Hibiki. On @tripticity_'s trip to Japan, I managed to find a bottle of the valuable label, which at the time was in short supply all over the Japanese island, to give to Mr. @tripticity- as a gift.
That night we tasted, on the one hand, a bourbon-based version, a Makers with apple syrup, star anise and cinnamon, plus a touch of anise and prosecco; and on the other, a gin and tonic based on Tanqueray Sevilla, with natural passion fruit juice, syrup and dehydrated grapefruit. We also tasted a non-alcoholic ginger beer and could smell, under the protection bags, the Fin de Mundo, a blend made of the most potent spices in the world.
We then headed to Casa Catedral for our last dinner where we had shrimp tacos and a tasty octopus with rice.
En la mañana, luego del desayuno, debimos partir hacia Colón, la caótica y típica ciudad centroamericana del lado del Caribe, universalmente conocida por su zona franca, para tomar el crucero por el sur del Caribe. La opción más conveniente para el viaje desde la ciudad de Panamá hasta el puerto de ingreso al canal desde el Caribe es Uber, que funciona muy bien, a mejores precios que el ofertado por los taxis tradicionales.
And so we bid farewell to Panama, enchanted with its history, its people and its skyline.
