Orange sunrise under the flight of a condor

Twenty-eight zigzags along the corniche road to Iruya, of course dirty and at high altitude

It feels like a challenge to reach the foot of the town nestled in the mountain, which although it is almost 2,800 meters above sea level, first requires crossing the wild and majestic Abra del Cóndor at an altitude of 4,100 meters. Although it is located in the Province of Salta, the only way to get there is by National Route 9 from the north of Humahuaca, in the Province of Jujuy, following the small sign that presides over the junction.

And perhaps therein lies its charm, in its remoteness and intense difficulty of access.

Once in its small square, in front of the Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario and San Roque, there are still 300 meters up the narrow cobblestone street -which feels extremely vertical- until you reach the Hotel Iruya, which offers the best views.

The town visit is done on foot; walk through its narrow streets, climb to the Mirador de la Cruz or cross the suspension bridge to -on the other side of the Iruya River- get the characteristic photo. It is amazing to find in the adobe walls old street art of great charm.

The church of course is its epicenter.

Back at the hotel, a memorable sunset awaits on the terrace, although the sunrise is even more sublime. The slowness with which the sky - caught between the rugged mountains - changes tones is a ceremony in itself, an immortal panorama, especially when the condors decide to make a graceful overflight. Behind is the cemetery, with the flowery tombs climbing the hillside.

The setting of Iruya in the middle of high mountains, surrounded by the Colanzulí and Milmahuasi rivers, makes it a mysterious destination, especially if you take into account that it has existed since 1753. 

On the way back, when you start the 21 kilometers to Abra del Cóndor -a route that involves a climb of more than 1,200 meters in altitude- and one more canyon awaits, the spirit is exalted not only by the bravery of the landscape and the difficulty of the road, but also because the return to the big city brings with it the uncertainty of knowing if this charming little town will welcome you again in another occasion, giving way to a feeling of nostalgia and, at the same time, satisfaction of being able to check off on your check list a visit to the unmissable Iruya.