Mar del Plata
The super complete capital of the Argentinean coast
One weekend in March, when all forecasts indicated that it would no longer be beach season, we took off with a great friend towards Mar del Plata.
Mr. @tripticity_ could not join us on this trip but he was in charge, as usual, of finding little pearls, key data, especially in gastronomic matters of MDQ.
To our surprise, the four days in the city were sunny and warm, which allowed us to enjoy long walks along the coast and even get into the sea to cool off from the intense heat.
We arrived in the afternoon. From the airport to our accommodation we took a cab, but then we found out that Uber was already operating in the city. From then on it was our means of transport during our stay. Very convenient, always a favorite of @tripticity_.
We chose the renowned Costa Galana hotel, a five-star in terms of structure and services, although its decoration reveals its certain age. It was inaugurated in the 1990s, when heavy curtains, bronze and carpets were trendy. Our room had a partial view of the sea, but being on a high floor, it made a difference to wake up looking at the Atlantic horizon.
Upon arrival, we did not hesitate to discover the spa conveniently located on the second floor at the front. One of the best of the hotel, complete, in perfect condition and with an immense view of Brava Beach. @tripticity_ has experience in the matter, so she is allowed to recommend the hotel mainly for its hydrotherapy facilities, but also for its strategic location, right in front of the sea, very close to the entertaining Alem, the street that offers cafes, restaurants and various bars.
After the circuit through the yacuzzi, with bubbles in different variants, the haman, the hot loungers and the dry spa, we got ready to prepare ourselves for a banquet at Lo de Fran, Cocina de Mar. Under the motto, "catch of the day, flavors forever" this restaurant in the port area is a must in gastronomic terms. Of course, as almost everywhere else, reservations are essential. This contemporary canteen stands out for the fresh seafood it prepares both on the grill and in the pan-fire.
Upon arrival, we were treated to some anchovies sautéed in oil and sourdough bread. We continued with prawns on a salt base cooked in a frying pan. Indescribable its delicate flavor, the softness of its texture. And then, the sea grill, with haddock, hake, squid and prawns, accompanied by mashed potatoes and pumpkin, candied tomatoes and corn. We finished with a white chocolate soup with passion fruit ice cream and an extraordinary chocolate ganache with olive oil and salt.
The next morning we took advantage of the good weather to take a walk along the beach.
Smart decision, as a succulent breakfast awaited us at the Costa Galana. Everything was of high quality, very tasty, with the croissants standing out, well done, as croissants should be, crunchy on the outside and soft in the center. Simply perfect.
That first day we decided to visit Aquarium Mar del Plata. We were hesitant about the idea of enclosed animals because at first it did not seem right, but then they explained to us that it works as a center for the recovery of the regional marine fauna. Therefore, we decided to give it a chance. So we took public bus number 221, which is paid in cash, and arrived at noon. First we saw the sea lions show, which was not very moving. Then we took the dolphin experience at an additional cost, which allows us to get to know a little of these friendly animals in an encounter of about half an hour.
On our way out, as we were relatively close to the Peralta Ramos Reserve, we decided to have tea at the Cabaña del Bosque before returning for another spa session, which would become our daily routine.
In the evening, we decided to have dinner at Casa Mediterraneo, a seafood restaurant, with a very nice decoration. We chose the garlic prawns and a sea sauté, ending with a chocolate volcano.
When we woke up, the radiant sun was inviting us to enjoy the courtesy offered by the Costa Galana hotel in its Playa Grande club. And so the morning went by, with the warm breeze, the radiant sun, the surfers putting on a show as they took to the waves.
In the afternoon, we visited the national historical monument of Obras Sanitarias de Mar del Plata, the Torre Tanque, to get one of the best views of the city. From there we passed by the Juan Carlos Castagnino Museum, which was closed in spite of the information provided in the brochure of the tourist office, descending to the monumental Rambla, with its complex composed of the Hotel Provincial and the Casino Central, work of Alejandro Bustillo. Of course, there we took a picture with the characteristic sea lions that crown the esplanade that goes down to Bristol Beach.
We visited the iconic hotel and its murals and the casino, and then we had one of the classics of Mar del Plata: churros with chocolate at Manolo.
After the spa session at the hotel, we headed to Lo de Tata, for the bodegón dining experience. A cantina specializing in seafood and fish. Augusto, the friendly waiter, very different from the young maître d' who lacked any kindness and even made us doubt whether to stay or not, noticed our pessimism at the uncomfortable reception and decided for us. His choice was the crown of the sea, composed of a fish pie, anchovies, squid, prawns, all breaded and fried, accompanied by a spicy sauce and the flagship of the house, the tortilla de papas babé (potato omelette). We accompanied it with a Pinot Noir from Costa Pampa, the project of the Trapiche winery in Chapadmalal, very close to the Argentinean Sea. There was no more room for dessert, so we opted to say goodbye with a house vermouth.
On the third day, we repeated the rite of the high breakfast, walk and relax on the beach, and then we dedicated the rest of the day to the cultural proposal offered by the city. So, first we visited the magnificent Mar, Museum of Contemporary Art of Mar del Plata, with its giant sea lion sculpture made from wrappers of the iconic local alfajores, the work of the artist Marta Minujín. The exhibitions are temporary and fortunately we had a very interesting collection. The favorite was Opi, the proposal of Marcela Cabutti, who created a playful space with glass balls, a classic Argentine game, thanks to the donation of the only factory that currently exists in Latin America, Tinka.
Then, we went back to the city center in the beloved bus 221, and from there we took a walk to Villa Victoria, the mansion that was the residence of Victoria Ocampo, in which her room and desk are preserved, particularly the wallpapers of the time, all with birds. The summer house, built in wood, of English style and manufacture, is very attractive in its facade and architecture. It houses the Victoria Ocampo Cultural Center. The surrounding gardens are very beautiful. In the guesthouse is the Avelina by Ficus cafe and bar, in a wonderful environment but with a rather poor service, just to have a drink without great pretensions, especially in terms of customer service, but very nice right in front of the house on the same property. The name of the bar is in honor of Villa Victoria's landlady, a friend and connoisseur of the history of the great Argentine writer.
Back at the hotel, we followed the tradition of visiting the spa to get ready for the gastronomic experience offered by Sarasanegro. The seafood cuisine of Fernanda Sarasa and Patricio Negro's restaurant. Elegant, delicate, the ambience is in keeping with the dishes proposed in their five-course dinner. The wine list is huge, with a surprising variety of labels.
We started with the vitello tonnato fish, a rainbow trout with vitellino tomato sauce and capers. The prawns with shallot confit and bearnaise followed. The catch of the day was, on the one hand, white salmon and, on the other, chernia with pistachio pesto and cauliflower cream and pil pil. All the dishes are evidence of the owners' experience of European cuisine.
Then followed the selection of cheese and sweets to finish with desserts, either the lemon or chocolate variant, both very rich, but being clearly the seafood the notorious and defining of Sarasanegro.
And so we ended our multifaceted visit to the city of the sea, but not before saying goodbye with a great breakfast the next day, contemplating it and toasting to friendship, the travels of friends and Argentine tourism.
