La Pampeana

Gastronomic Hotel

In the center of Argentina, very close to the city of Realicó, in probably the most fertile lands of the country, there is an old hacienda recycled by Javier Araujo Montes and his wife Betina, nowadays turned into a superb rural and gastronomic hotel.

This chef from Madrid has created in La Pampeana, his kingdom, the perfect place to disconnect, relax and indulge in a culinary experience that will blow your mind.

A very significant detail: when you make your reservation, within minutes Javier himself calls you -whatever the country and whatever the language- and tells you each of the rules of the house and the reasons why they were enacted. Months later, when I checked in, I understood that he took the trouble to avoid misunderstandings because he wants your stay to be lived in such a way that relaxation is a complement to the maximum attractions, which are dinner and breakfast.

The story goes like this: there are four rooms available. The accommodation is very comfortable, with each room decorated according to the period of that old mansion that used to house great Argentine heroes. In each room the color of the name with which they were baptized predominates: Sunflower, Clover, Alfalfa and Soybean.

The property belonged to one of the most important meat businessmen of his time, Carlos Fuchs. Masonic symbols -such as the bronze square on the chimney- can be found in many corners of the estancia. 

It is entered through an alley between tall eucalyptus trees, from where you can already see the formidable swimming pool, essential for the hot Pampean days and also to protect yourself from the mosquitoes that, it seems, abound in the summer. Besides, the huge garden surrounding the house is the perfect place to enjoy beautiful sunsets. In our case, one with pinkish tones in which a complete rainbow was drawn.

However, those who have already accepted Javier's conditions know that beyond the rest and the beautiful scenery, the most important thing comes at dinner time.

The menu is only known to the chef, who presents it in writing when taking one of the four tables available in the elegant dining room.

Nine dishes are offered each evening. They vary from one day to the next and although they seem to be the work of chance, in reality they are the result of Javier's intention to honor his guests. So, having told him that first night about a time in Seville when I tasted oxtail, and also about our characteristic high altitude wines in Salta, the following night the star of the dinner was a majestic oxtail with fried leek, accompanied by a red wine from the select San Pedro de Yacochuya winery.

Javier is one of those chefs whose experience, technique and cunning achieve perfect flavors and surprising textures, combining traditional recipes with ideas that in theory -only in theory- are not very congruent, such as the pre-dessert of the first night: a strawberry with garlic praline.

Javier Araujo Montes' proposal has only one alternative: with or without wine pairing. Obviously, these delicacies must be harmonized with the different wines he has at his disposal for each stage of the meal. The tableware is also a journey to another aesthetic dimension.

In short, the experience is outstanding and unforgettable.

For years, Javier has been weaving his networks of contact with local producers, in order to obtain the best raw materials, both in terms of freshness and quality. Hence the stature of the dishes presented.

But that's not the end of the joy. If at night the dinner is tremendous, in the morning the breakfast is equally huge. Tasty fruits such as cherries and strawberries, charcuterie made by the genius chef, country cheeses or eggs specially prepared on request make the guest feel part of royalty. All accompanied by freshly squeezed orange juice. The croissants and brioche bread deserve a separate chapter, both perfectly baked by Javier minutes before being served on the elegant tables.

For those who appreciate history, it is worth leaving this gastronomic paradise to visit the charming town of Intendente Alvear, cradle of great polo players. There, the beautiful French automobile Gobron-Brillié, rebuilt by the initiative and effort of a whole town, is exhibited. Its houses and ranches are well worth a visit.

Just that one-hour getaway to return to La Pampeana, lie down on a comfortable deck chair in the solarium, watch the clouds go by and get ready for the feast orchestrated by the great Javier Araujo Montes, who without boasting at all -because he is convinced that happiness comes from somewhere else- and as a way of justifying so much perfection, in a confident burst opened an old cocktail shaker and discovered the most revered cocktail in the gastronomic world: The famous three stars of the Michelin guide.

And so it is. Beyond the emblems, what matters are the moments and the sensations experienced. La Pampeana is the perfect place to be convinced of this.