Jodhpur
The blue city and its extraordinary fort
Rested, after a day of relaxation and fine dining in Mihir Garh, we set off for the blue city. This is how Jodhpur is known for the color with which some of its houses were painted. The indigo color was used to repel mosquitoes, although according to tradition it is said that it was used because it belonged to the priests.
Like all the roads we took, the trip was an adventure. In addition to many cars, motorcycles, trucks, cows, women in colorful clothes carrying huge pots on their heads, as we entered Jodhpur I happened to look to the side and saw an elephant, literally, an elephant on a street on the outskirts of the city. By then we were beginning to understand that everything is possible in India.
Birmaram, our driver slowed down to pick up our guide. Jaswant Singh introduced himself and got into the car. For the sake of simplicity he suggested we call him Jasu. I appreciated it, as I found it difficult to pronounce Indian names.
First we drove to the 20th century Maharaja's Palace. Among the more than five hundred kingdoms that existed in India before the democracy was declared by the Constitution in 1950, Jodhpur is characterized by its magnificent palace, which has a very interesting historical museum. The former palaces of the maharajahs were generally converted in part into luxury chain hotels, while the royal families kept another part for their chambers. They kept the lineage but not the political power.
In the case of Jodhpur, what was once the royal palace was reduced to a third, as one part has been converted into a Taj chain hotel and another into a museum. Just when we arrived, an impressive number of musicians dressed in traditional costumes, dancers and guards riding camels were welcoming the guests of the celebrity wedding that was to take place that night at the hotel. The spectacle was extraordinary. Our trip to India coincided with the wedding season, so we experienced this situation on other occasions, such as in Jaisalmer.
After witnessing the show that meant the entry of luxury cars with the illustrious guests to the millionaire wedding, we entered the Umaid Bhawan, historical museum, which has a collection of antiques and objects belonging to the royal family, including a collection of antique cars. The Argentine influence is materialized there thanks to polo, popular in the region and part of the interesting legacy of the family. There are also objects from different cultures and works by Stephan Norbling, a Polish painter who took refuge in India. In the museum there are even photographs of what was the country's first airport, located in Jodhpur.
Pur means city in Hindi. That is why many cities in India end in "pur", such as Jaipur, Udaipur, etc. While "bad" is the way to refer to city in the language of the Muslims who invaded northern India.
From there we headed to the royal cenotaphs of Jaswant Thada (memorial of the Marwari rulers of Jodhpur, in particular, the white marble one of Maharaja Jaswant Singhji), where the guide - with much patience and professionalism - explained to us the rites and ceremonies that follow death; the Hindu tradition of cremating the bodies and the construction of these monuments to remember the past life.
From the other side of the road, we got a great view of the Mehrangarh Fort, perhaps the most beautiful fort in all of Rajasthan. It is the most impressive monument in the city.
On the way, we saw several antique stores with carved doors from ancient haveli. I told Jaswant about my interest in seeing some of them. Without hesitation, he instructed Birmaram to slow down and we descended to discover this giant shed filled with objects of every size, shape and color, followed by a room full of furniture, and then we were invited down a staircase to a huge warehouse of fabrics, textiles and carpets. We were overwhelmed by the universal amount of things piled up in these passageways. All full of fabrics, we wandered endless galleries while the owner, a charming salesman, quoted all the big European brands to convince us to buy.
It was a lot. We weren't tempted by anything. The real cashmere pashminas we had already bought in Jaisalmer and the decorative objects - although some were extraordinary - were impossible to carry in our carry on luggage. Yes: we traveled with carry on for three weeks in India - crazy! But @tripticity_ always focuses on travel efficiency. And nothing like traveling light.
From there we headed to the fort, which is now a museum. In fact, the royal family -very cleverly- managed a foundation to which the income they charge to tourists goes. Along with the one in Udaipur, this City Palace was one of the most expensive tickets we paid, about 650 Indian rupees.
At the huge entrance gate, Jaswant told us the story of the war between two princes for a woman, who after the fight for her love ended up committing suicide and several other stories from a novel, making the entrance even more spectacular. Undoubtedly, Jaswant was our favorite guide in the country.
The Maharaja, wise, had an elevator built that avoids a climb of more than forty meters.
Once at the top, we were enraptured by the views, we understood why it is known by its chromatic name. All the houses are painted in different shades of light blue to dark blue.
Inside the fort, we visited the palace and its extraordinary architecture. All carved in stone. At first we thought that these carvings were made of wood but Jaswant confirmed that no, it was in stone. It is simply amazing, of an extraordinary beauty. The facade is the most remarkable thing although the collection of objects is also very entertaining as the elephant mounts, or the miniature paintings, and what to say about the halls of mirrors or pearls that in other times allowed the members of the royal family to meditate with the light of the candles reflecting towards the infinite.
We went down towards the city, while we understood that it was much bigger than Jaisalmer. The horns, the motorcycles, the vehicular chaos surprised us.
At a traffic light, we stopped right next to a boy driving a motorcycle with his sister and mother on the back. We smiled at each other so we were encouraged to lower the window and have a little chat with them while the red light lasted. Extraordinary!
Then in the midst of that chaos, the guide directed us to get off and follow him into the hustle and bustle that was that street market, so vibrant, so colorful. We headed towards Seven Sisters, whose official name is The Spice Girls of Rajasthan and India, MV SPICES, a store selling spices, owned by seven sisters orphaned by their father, Mohanlal Verhomal, who had started the business and who knew how to keep it together with their mother, the expert in the manufacture of masalas and curries. Priya, one of the seven sisters, very kindly attended us and offered her products.
The experience in the Sadar market and the square around the Clock Tower was a great one, we will never forget it.
As we strolled through the different stalls, such was our astonishment that a stallholder gave us a sweet to taste, which I confess I could not define whether to honor the invitation or take care of my stomach and discard it, but the compassionate and kind look of the seller who had given me a piece of that delicacy cut with his hands did not allow me to honor my fears, so I tried it without further delay. Really delicious, sweet, very sweet.
We got lost in the market and at one point Jasu pointed out a store that the Argentinian women liked. I entered without believing that I was going to be tempted by anything, since I am not one to wear vibrant colors, like those of the Indian prints. Something happened and the desire to wear those beautiful and colorful textiles was awakened.
While I was trying on the clothes, while Jasu and Mr. @tripticity_ were patiently sitting outside, a man came in with a fire. It was closing time and as they are very superstitious, every night before closing -for good fortune- they perform ceremonies, in this case with a fire and some prayers. Fire in the middle of a store full of textiles. Again, not to be believed!
One of the dresses I chose was a bit too big for me. The salesman convinced me that he would take it to the hotel once it was fitted, and so it was. About half an hour later he was texting me from the hotel lobby with the dress ready.
It was getting very late but we were still with Jasu so we felt safe in the deserted streets. How important is the committed guide, who knows he is a host! Thank you so much Jasu!
The hotel was a short distance from the Clock Tower. We took the photo and continued on. The day had been intense, exhausting, extraordinary, so we went up to the hotel terrace where the Indique restaurant was located to have dinner there. We tried the vegetables with spicy rice.
Since it was wedding season, from the terrace we were able to enjoy several fireworks shows while we were having dinner.
Early in the morning, we had to leave for our next destination, the romantic Udaipur. But the previous day, as we had visited the step-well Toorji Ka Jhalra late at night, before our driver picked us up we walked there, passing by the market, which was still closed. Some stallholders were just starting their activity, especially the food stallholders, like the one who was boiling milk in a giant metal bowl to prepare the traditional masala chai (a spicy milk tea).
With those flavors that will remain in our memories we left the unforgettable Jodhpur.
