Cusco, Valle Sagrado & Machupicchu
History and cuisine in the beautiful imperial city
We arrived on a low-cost Sky flight from Lima.
One thing to note: our flight from Argentina arrived at night, without an immediate connection to Cusco, so we decided to spend the night in the very convenient hotel opposite the airport. It is the Costa del Sol of a Wyndham chain. Complete and with a good restaurant, it is a very valuable option to spend the night at the airport of the Peruvian capital.
Another important detail to bear in mind is Gastón Acurio's Tanta restaurant, ideal for enjoying Peruvian cuisine in the intermezzo between flights. This has become so important that once the new terminal is completed, there will be an exclusive area for bars, restaurants and specialised shops.
In Cusco, the forecast predicted a rainy weekend and the clouds we passed through before landing seemed to confirm this.
There was some turbulence before the well-adjusted landing in the Cusco valley, in the middle of the city, which seems to be growing all the time.
The number of buildings on the mountainside is striking; that use that the Incas promoted so much for their crops through the use of terraces now seems to be replicated by their descendants in the construction of their houses without plaster, which are barely held up on the slope giving the impression that they are about to fall, even metres from the path of the planes.
We had agreed with Wilfredo, a tour guide recommended to us, to do the city tour of Cusco, through its four main archaeological sites, the same day we arrived. The agreement was that he would pick us up from the airport to start the tour, but when we arrived he was not there, which caused a bit of annoyance, but without hesitation we asked for help from a member of the security staff at the arrivals terminal, who - like almost everyone else in this fantastic country - did not hesitate to help us. With great courtesy he lent us his phone, as we had no mobile data, and so we were able to call Wilfredo, who in only five minutes showed up with the driver.
By then the rain was starting to be heavier. There followed a twenty minute drive to the historic centre, to check into our beautiful hotel opposite the Santo Domingo Convent, which was built over the Inca temple of Coricancha, one of the most transcendental sites for their culture, dedicated to the worship of the sun. The story goes that its walls were covered in gold.
Abittare is a superbly located hotel with fresh style and friendly staff. A modern reconstruction on an old site of typical colonial architecture, with flowery patios and balconies overlooking the baroque tower of the convent church.
After a quick check in, we set off for Saqsaywaman, the first destination of the tour.
By this time the rain was beginning to fall even harder, which meant that we were almost the only visitors to the archaeological site.
Wilfredo was telling us the history of the place appealing to our imagination, to understand the grandeur of what was the ancient Inca fort.
From the top, a great viewpoint allows a panoramic view of the beautiful city.
We were able to observe its numerous temples, all from the early Hispanic period, which stand majestically in its historic centre.
When the rain ceased to fall, groups of tourists with their respective guides came out of nowhere, occupying the whole area, the pampa of the celebrations.
It was an Easter weekend, an extra long holiday, so we knew in advance that there would be a lot of people during our trip.
Then we headed for the Q'enqo, archaeological complex, a place where sacred rites were celebrated and where Wilfredo explained to us the Inca trilogy of the sky, the earth and its underworld, represented by the condor, the puma and the snake.
The rain had stopped by then, which allowed us to walk around much more comfortably. He also explained how they handled the concept of space and time, defined as Pacha.
The stones of that site are not as impressive as those of Saqsaywaman, with its imposing walls, but the history hidden in Q'enqo and its eucalyptus forest on one side, with the city at its feet, was very captivating.
It was there that Wilfredo made us try the humitas dulces, a traditional dish from this region of Peru made with corn, evaporated milk, sugar and sultanas.
Then we headed to Tambomachay, the site dedicated to the cult of water. The Incas built an extraordinary hydraulic system that allowed the population to be supplied with the primordial element by means of the reasonable use of the springs.
And finally we head to Puka Pukara, the Red Fort, used as a post. It is the last archaeological site that makes up the circuit on the outskirts of Cusco. It is an architectural complex of supposed military use, with multiple rooms, squares and aqueducts.
To access all these sites it is convenient to buy a tourist ticket. With an approximate value of 35 dollars it allows the entrance to the main attractions of both Cusco and the Sacred Valley.
The return to the historical centre was quite chaotic due to the complex traffic that characterises the city of Cusco with its narrow streets. For this reason we asked Wilfredo to drop us off directly not at the hotel but on the very touristic Avenida Sol, only a few metres away from the Plaza de Armas.
There we were able to exchange our currency, which was of course very informal for Latin America.
After the quick procedure, we went to the square, while it was still early for a light dinner, as the next day we had the Sacred Valley tour booked, which started at 7 am.
The square was completely occupied by locals and tourists coming and going and the restaurants were packed.
It was then that we regretted not having done what is customary for @tripticity_, that is to make - beforehand - the corresponding reservations for dinners, being the travellers that we are.
But that experience of being rejected by several restaurants for being saturated allowed us to coordinate the following days' dinners, in order to make sure we had the proper reservations in advance, in the restaurants we wanted and at the times we preferred.
Well, that first night, the available option was Kion. And there's no fool without luck, as the saying goes, because this Chifa restaurant was an extraordinary welcome to the excellent Peruvian gastronomy that we would be tasting during those days.
Chifa is the fusion of Peruvian and Chinese food. The place is very well decorated, the service is very good and the food is delicious.
The next day, after a light breakfast and the obligatory coca tea to avoid possible altitude sickness, Wilfredo and the driver picked us up early from the hotel to start the full tour of the Sacred Valley.
Luckily, during our stay in Cusco, apart from an initial headache, we can say that we did not suffer from soroche or altitude sickness, but we followed the locals' recommendations to the letter: drink plenty of water, drink coca tea in the morning, muña tea and aniseed at night and do not run, take it all calmly.
First we visited the village of Chinchero, where a large airport with a runway is being planned to welcome the countless tourists from all over the world without the need to go through Lima.
The traditions there are manifested in the daily life, in the costumes, in the small shops.
We passed by a centre of craftswomen who, with a permanent smile, showed us their skills in spinning and weaving with the wool known as Baby Alpaca, obtained from the first shearing of the animal, which is characterised by its extreme softness.
The artisans have a well-organised demonstration, showing the process from the beginning to the manufacture of their garments. Their designs are dominated by native figures. If you are looking for a more neutral style of garment, it is better to opt for the shops around the square in Cusco, where the well-known Kuna and Sol Alpaca stand out.
Returning to Chinchero, from its archaeological site, where a traditional 17th century church stands, there is a beautiful view of the agricultural terraces and the Sacred Valley in its enormity, and even of the airport under construction.
To get there, as in general on this trip, we had to climb some steep stone steps, full of little shops selling souvenirs to visitors.
The main square, also full of handicraft vendors, is also very entertaining.
We returned to our vehicle to head to Moray, the next archaeological site, after a drive of just over an hour. The attraction of the terraces is hypnotic.
By this time the sun was breaking through the clouds, highlighting the fluorescent green of the slopes and the scenic beauty of the complex. The image was extraordinary.
In the case of Moray what stands out is the circular shape of the concentric terraces, generating different levels.
Afterwards, we stopped at a nice shop selling Maras salt, where they gave us the typical demonstration for tourists on the extraction techniques and the multiple combinations they offer for both gastronomy and aesthetics. They combine the spices of the area with the salt of Maras, as well as the classic chocolate made from pure Peruvian cocoa and the different varieties of fried corn.
The stop was useful to be able to use the toilets and buy some of these products. There we also bought Black Maca, a tuber that grows in the Peruvian Andes, famous for its memory benefits.
We continued on to Urubamba. On arrival we stopped to appreciate the panoramic view of the majestic valley from a viewpoint, and then headed towards Ollantaytambo.
Wilfredo proposed to have lunch in a buffet style restaurant in Urubamba, which although it offered a very nice view did not convince us. We preferred to stick to our plan to visit Carmen Rosa Mesco's Apu Verónica in the heart of Ollantaytambo.
There we were delighted with an extraordinary river trout, served on a hot stone with Andean potatoes, spicy sauces and fresh vegetables from her brother's organic garden. They are nine siblings who were orphaned at a very young age and had to leave their home in the countryside and go down to provide for their future.
Carmen studied cooking with the help of a Canadian foundation, which allowed her to dream of the restaurant she finally opened in the heart of Ollantaytambo. Her challenge is to revalue the agricultural product and serve it in a dish that appeals to the senses.
A discovery! That lunch was unforgettable.
After the banquet, we headed towards the archaeological complex to climb the steps of the iconic enclosure, built into the mountainside. The climb up was as hard as the climb down, and as we did so with some effort we were encouraged by the thought that we had to win the dinner that awaited us that night.
We continued our journey to the beautiful Pisac, whose terraces are also captivating for their size and perfection. Destiny gave us a complete rainbow while we visited. It was perfect.
One more hour driving along the mountain highways to get to Cusco.
After a refreshing bath we set out to go up to San Blas, the cool neighbourhood of the city, because that night we had planned to try the Peruvian Creole cuisine at Pachapapa.
It was time to try the rocoto stuffed with pork loin and vegetables, which was accompanied by a yellow potato pie. Delicious. The main course was a chicharrón cusqueño with mote and parboiled huayro potato and a mix of fresh vegetables. We finished the evening with a toast while we enjoyed a chocolate, vanilla cream and strawberry ice cream.
We were very tired but decided to walk back to the hotel. On the way we passed the iconic twelve corners stone. During the day the site was impossible, full of tourists wanting to get their picture taken, but after our dinner there was no one there so we took the opportunity to take ours.
The next day Beto from Speedy Viajes was waiting for us to visit the incredible coloured mountain.
The regular tour foresees a pick up from the hotel at 3.30 am, to then get to the base where a walk of an hour and a half begins at 4500 metres up to the view point, passing 5000. There is a variant that incorporates the use of four-wheelers to the base of the mountain.
We chose a slightly more comfortable way of doing it. Although it was more expensive, the private tour option allowed us to get a good night's rest as we left at 8am and enjoy the comfort of travelling alone in a spacious vehicle.
Also, by the time we reached the base of the mountain, the tourist groups were starting to return, so we were able to enjoy it almost in solitude. There were very few of us visiting at that time.
As in almost all the tours we did during our trip, it was essential to apply a lot of sunscreen. In the case of Vinicunqa, we also took a lot of warm clothes.
It was more than a three hour drive to the base. Once we arrived Beto sent us up on the motorbikes that would take us to the top, thus avoiding the hour and a half hike.
Everything went so quickly that we didn't even register the mega operating centre that was functioning at the base, which we were only able to enjoy to the full on our return.
We quickly climbed up on a road that felt like a motocross track. On the way down, we made a super short walk of about five minutes to the viewpoint, but the altitude, more than 5000 metres above sea level, was felt in the chest. It was hard to breathe, it seemed that the body couldn't get any oxygen.
All of the above was worth it to be able to see and contemplate the beautiful Apu Vinicunqa. Apu in Quechua means mountain and is associated with the divine, as the pre-Inca peoples attributed influence to it in the vital cycles of the region. Cunqa on the other hand is neck. In fact, what can be seen is a side of the mountain that looks like an elegant neck, covered with different colours, of great magnificence.
The grace of the mountain lies not only in its vivid colours but also in the surrounding landscape, the supernatural environment, with the giant glacier of Apu Ausangate at the back, a white mantle hanging in the height. We sat down wanting to stop time. We had planned to stay for about an hour if our physical condition allowed it, as it is common to feel the soroche at high altitude. But fortunately this was not our case. First we were enraptured by the beauty of the mountain. Then came the moment of laughter when Don Gregorio offered us the photo with his alpacas. There were two of them, one of Suri breed, with longer hair, and another one of Huacaya breed, the most common in the area. After the photos, we went down the slope to the mountain sector where several stalls were offering food to the visitors. There it was impossible not to take some more funny pictures with the alpacas dressed in funny clothes and even wearing sunglasses. The alpacas are camelids of America that are characterised by the fact that they can be domesticated, like the llamas that abound in our Salta, and are different from the vicuñas that do not survive in captivity.
The alpaca is the animal par excellence in the Andean area of Peru, from which they not only obtain their meat and wool, but also play a fundamental role in the tourist attraction of the area. They even told us that they have developed therapy options through interaction with these docile animals.
We could not leave without tasting the alpaca chicharrón. There, at the top, they fried pieces of meat in pots that were offered to tourists with Andean potatoes and Creole sauce on the side. Not for the gentle palate.
We also ordered an Inka Cola to recharge our batteries.
Once we had finished our snack and after taking the obligatory photograph at the sculpture in the shape of an outspread hand, we went down on the motorbikes of the baqueanos who had taken us up to the base of the Cerro Arcoíris (Rainbow Hill). There, we were able to catch our breath as we wandered around the stalls of the Kkayrahuiri community, owners of the land where the great tourist attraction is located.
Giant-toothed white corn was boiling in the pots so we were tempted to try one. Super filling and nutritious, soft and meaty.
The drive back to the city of Cusco felt heavy, especially as it was Saturday so there was a lot of traffic.
We had made a reservation at Limo, Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese food. We were assigned a nice table on the balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas.
We were tired but we didn't let ourselves be overcome and set out to rejoice in the wonderful feast that awaited us, while enjoying the glorious view of the historic centre of Cusco and toasting with a pisco sour.
We started with the ebi karami wan, prawns and cheeses wrapped in oriental dough, served with a passion fruit sauce. Delicious, crunchy. And for the main course, a Limo stir-fry, the traditional wok stir-fried pork loin, with organic vegetables, yellow curry sauce and coconut milk, accompanied by udon noodles. We finished with a lemon verbena infused flan. Obviously, all dishes with edible flowers, ultra well presented by the friendly waiters. Peru is known for its excellent service to tourists. There was no one who was not more than willing to help, to satisfy and make the stay even better. It is remarkable how clear the Peruvians are about customer service. Moreover, everyone with a smile.
The next morning we had to get up early for the highlight, the awaited tour to Machupicchu.
We would like to thank Touring Cusco (https://www.touringcusco.com/) the tourist agency we hired to do it. The truth is that we had planned this trip for 2019, but we could not make it happen due to a family member's health problem. Then came the pandemic and the years went by, even Latam closed its offices in our city, so we gave it all up for lost. But when we contacted Touring Cusco telling them that we were finally going to be able to visit Machupicchu, Luis responded very kindly confirming that the agency would honour the amount paid via Paypal at the time, only deducting the penalty that the train charges in case of changes.
And so it was. While we were having dinner in Pachapapa, the agency representative appeared and, keeping his word, brought us the entrance tickets to the archaeological complex and the transfer tickets! At certain times of the year the train to Aguas Calientes does not leave Cusco but Ollantaytambo, which means that to visit the citadel you have to follow the following sequence: first a transfer from the hotel to the offices of one of the two train companies that operate, in our case Inka Rail, then an informal "check in" to get on a bus that takes more than two hours to Ollantaytambo, where after waiting a few minutes you board the train that travels along a path along the sacred river to Aguas Calientes. This small town where there are no cars, only the train and the buses, is the point from where you take them to get to the entrance of Machupicchu. In fact, once in Aguas Calientes and after passing through its market of handicrafts and knick-knacks for tourists, we had time for a coffee that helped us wake up after the early start that morning before boarding the respective bus. The climb is intense, with the river getting lower and lower in less than half an hour.
The remains of the city, now one of the seven modern wonders of the world, date back to the 15th century. The story goes that it was abandoned a century later. The surrounding jungle hid it, until it came onto the world's radar during the expeditions of the American Hiram Bingham.
When we started to climb the circuit, the clouds still covered the famous Huayna Picchu, but when we reached the viewpoint it opened up and we could contemplate its majesty. The impressive thing about the citadel is above all the enclave in which it is located, between the jungle and the peaks of the pointed mountains.
From the viewpoints we marvel at the terraces and the landscape that surrounds them, to continue visiting the main square, the rooms, the temple of the three windows, the circular towers, the site of the condor, etc.
After the whole circuit guided by the colossal Jans Garcia, who with extreme professionalism and objectivity was telling us the history and providing information about the citadel and its population.
After finishing and waiting for the bus (a long queue, which felt heavy after the more than two-hour walk) we returned to Aguas Calientes. We had time before the scheduled train departure so we stopped at Mesa 7, where we enjoyed an Inka Cola and some refreshing tequeños with guacamole. From there the tiring return to Cusco, already at night, after the train and the bus, proud to have unlocked another level knowing the modern wonder. We were so tired that we went straight to the Abittare Hotel to rest.
The last day in Cusco we had planned to get lost alone in the city, to walk around it, to enjoy it. We didn't want to do a tour anymore. So after breakfast we started a walk that ended that night, with the corresponding gourmet stops.
So, we started at the vibrant San Pedro market, discovering its stalls, being surprised by the variety of types of Andean potatoes grown in Peru, tasting its famous chocolates, its renowned coffee, buying gifts to take back home and even delighting ourselves with a delicious fresh juice from stall 76 of the market, in charge of the super friendly Judith, who with her smile tempted us to try one of her fruit mixes.
We chose the custard apple, lucuma, mango and orange. Extraordinary.
We said goodbye to the colours and sounds of the bustling market and headed towards the Church of San Francisco, passing through the Arch of Santa Clara.
We visit the museum of San Francisco Convent, with its fabulous collection of Cusquenian art.
We continue visiting the Plaza del Regocijo until we reach the Plaza de Armas. We had made a reservation for lunch at Ceviche Seafood Kitchen. We were seated at a table with an extraordinary view, overlooking both the Cathedral and the church of the Society of Jesus. The garlic prawns with rocoto and the Andean ceviche with trout, corn and corn were out of this world.
Then it was time for shopping. It was impossible to visit Cusco without being tempted to buy the famous Baby Alpaca wool fabrics, super soft and warm.
In the evening we decided to say goodbye to Cusco with a toast in the stately bar of the Belmond Hotel, located in the former 16th century convent. We ordered a pisco sour, rightly considered the best in Cusco, made with pisco, lemon and egg white, and the Monasterio S signature cocktail, very fresh and fruity.
In the evening, a final feast awaited us at Chicha, Gastón Acurio's restaurant, where we repeated a rocoto relleno, one of @tripticity_’s, favourites, and a prawn with sriracha presented in a taco version, using a fresh lettuce from the garden, accompanied by a very cold Cusqueña beer.
And so ended our journey through the wonderful Andean city of sublime architecture and better gastronomy.
