Corrientes

Landscapes, flavors and tradition 

The entrance from the neighboring province of Chaco, through the General Belgrano Bridge, is impressive and unforgettable, especially for those who see the Paraná River for the first time. If, on the other hand, you arrive by National Route 12 from Posadas, the capital of Misiones, the arrival is no less pleasant: a stop in Ramada Paso or any other riverside town in the surroundings, where a fresh chipa m'boca from the grills is offered on the way, will be enough to fall in love with Corrientes before the first encounter.

The city is neat, clean and cared for. Its houses and buildings are well finished. Its churches, from the early twentieth century, are very characteristic. The cathedral stands out for the simplicity of its walls without ornaments and for its high Greco-Roman colonnade. As in almost every main square, public buildings took over the scene.

Undoubtedly, the main attraction, both for locals and visitors, is the riverside. On the one hand, the landscape that offers the best view of the river and, on the other hand, the varied gastronomic offer that invites you to enjoy this great esplanade. For @tripticity_ her favorite were the drinks at sunset.

Yes, on a Saturday afternoon we were walking in search of the best place to enjoy the sunset when we came across the Natural Science Museum, which although it was closed, the tables of its Cafeteria Amado were full of locals enjoying the 25 degrees in the open air. Further back, next to the river, we found Animal Bar de Fuegos, where by chance we managed to get a free table during happy hour drinks. The waiter's attitude was a proof of the local kindness, as he rushed us to take it without hesitation, warning us that it would be occupied in a matter of seconds. And so it was: we sat down and in a heartbeat the waiting line was formed. The spritz and the live music of the DJ with the Paraná behind him were memorable... as much as the mosquito bites that accompanied but did not ruin the moment. The city of Corrientes and the whole province are a paradise for these insects due to its humid weather.

That afternoon the sun set just behind the Belgrano Bridge, so we decided to approach the beach to see how the sun, a beautiful fiery red, made his performance. One of those outstanding works of art that nature never ceases to offer to the eyes of those who value them. Soon the sky was dyed orange, pink and violet. It was a chromatic light show. The mosquitoes were obviously still doing their thing: there was (and will be) no repellent against their attacks.

We enjoyed it so much that the next day we got ready to repeat it, but this time the clouds covered the sky so the sun was hidden and the sunset was spoiled. However, the view of the huge mirror of water and the changing colors of the sky under the sieve of the thin clouds that covered it did their part. The folks from Corrientes were still enjoying it for a reason. It was national election day, however, there was no ban there! People enjoyed the classic mate or tereré as much as the sinful beer. The chipa shops, of course, were exploding.

The most delicious thing the city has to offer is undoubtedly its characteristic cassava flour muffin mixed with cheese, preferably one of those sold in street carts. @tripticity_ made a tour to taste them, in a frenetic sampling of chipacitos, both in neighborhood bakeries and street stalls as well as in the most beautiful and cozy bars.

The m'boca version was the favorite. The dough is placed on a tacuara or iron rod and placed directly on the grill, by means of a nice rotating system that achieves a perfect uniform baking. The name means revolver cake in Guarani, as it was associated with the gun barrel. It is crunchy and spongy at the same time. Its version stuffed with ham and cheese is simply a bomb, and that qualifier is an understatement for mortadella and cheese.

Another option is the corn bread with corn in the style of Paraguayan soup, the chipa guazú.

For accommodation, La Alondra Casa de Huéspedes was our great find. Highly decorated with stylish vintage furniture along with recycled industrial objects. Its library at the entrance and the living room upstairs invite you to relax. The garden, surrounded by trees, is home to the local birds, some with red breasts and others with golden yellow that accompanied @tripticity_ with their song in the solarium, after a dip in the pool to refresh the souls.

The garden, surrounded by trees, is home to the local birds, some with red breasts and others with golden yellow that accompanied @tripticity_with their song in the solarium, after a dip in the pool to refresh the souls.

The hotel's bistro and bar offer well-crafted signature drinks, the Alondra Spirit cocktail being a clear example. It was prepared by bartender Franco Porcel, based on bourbon with ginger syrup and honey, topped with a couple of cherries. An exquisite and refined elixir.

Very close to the city, Santa Ana de los Guácaras is becoming a thriving area, with a variety of food trucks in its access arch that offer good dishes and drinks. Lo de Juan chipacería and pastry shop, a few meters away, is another recommended place.

A visit to the town's main square is an invitation to the past: colonial-style buildings, old facades -some with recovas- and an immaculate white chapel from the end of the 18th century. To top it all off, at the exit of the small town, a steam train in front of the park is the perfect place for the enjoyment of the children who visit it.

Corrientes has a deep-rooted identity, not for nothing was it one of the founding provinces of Argentina. In our case, as we were also born in a region with a strong sense of belonging, this similarity was evident. Its people, history and culture are very characteristic and define a very solid local tradition. Just as Salta has its music, Corrientes has its own; in Salta the zamba is typical, in Corrientes the chamamé. Besides the transcendental role of the gauchos in the construction of what today is our homeland, the Guaraní influence has a very strong weight in the DNA of Corrientes and another component, also very important, is the Paraná River, almost like the hills of our Salta, which contributes to swell that pride so characteristic of this littoral land.

On our way back from the Falls, we decided to return for a day at La Alondra, the waterfront and Animal Bar de Fuegos. The sun did not fail this time and its sunset allowed us to say goodbye to the charming Corrientes.

Find all the information and locations on the map below: