Casa Grande
The authentic peña
Back in the 1940s, a brilliant generation of intellectuals marked Salta's cultural identity with fire. El Cuchi Leguizamón, Manuel Castilla, Jaime Dávalos and so many others fed the nights of the city, and so, since then, the music and poetry of the northwest resound throughout Argentina under one word: folklore.
At 1107 Alberdi Street, a large house a century and a half old opens its doors from Wednesday to Sunday, guaranteeing that mystical experience of a true Salta-style night, with pure culture, regional cuisine and, of course, good wine.
The adobe walls are proof of its history, from the times when it was the main hall of a field that extended south to the Arenales River. Some antique objects stand out to the curious eye, such as the collections of art books or the beautiful photographs of the author, next to an incredible gramophone.
It is advisable to arrive early at Casa Grande, as reservations are not taken and the selection of a good table is strictly on a first-come, first-served basis.
After passing through the first rooms, a huge courtyard surrounds a pool that accompanies the stage. We sat right in front of the garden. Without waiting, we were served.
From one moment to the next, the coliseum of Salta's folklore fills up.
The menu is varied, highlighting -of course- regional dishes. Our choice that night was the empanadas and humitas to start and then we shared a very generous portion of baked meat, very homemade, accompanied with vegetables and potatoes well browned. All very well marinated with a traditional Salta wine, the Finca Humanao malbec.
Just as we were about to finish dinner, Abel Dávalos, El Negro, was introduced and the call to the vigorous Salta singing and clapping began. The soloist and his musicians made a musical stroll through the classics of the popular songbook. By then, the audience was losing its embarrassment and a massive dance was set up in the center of the patio.
During the intermission, when the Pikillines were getting ready to start the second show, we did not hesitate to taste our legendary regional sweet par excellence, the turrón salteño. Fresh, freshly made, delicious!
The band played and the diners came back to enliven the old Alberdi house. The show is undeniably spontaneous, as the revelry was generated by the enjoyment of the diners, but it was well directed by both Abel Davalos and the Pikillines.
And so, after a journey through the legendary path of Salta's bohemian life, our night at the Casa Grande ended with a happy heart, a genuine and sincere expression of the popular culture that we are so proud of.
